Previous owner Phillip Jones getting to work back in 2009. | New Bass Phillip owner Jean-Marie Fourrier in his Burgundy vineyards. |
Legendary Australian pinot noir producer Bass Phillip was sold to a consortium of three buyers a few weeks ago, March 31, right on the cusp of the 2020 harvest. Phillip Jones, who planted the vineyard in 1979 and sold the first Bass Phillip wines in 1991, has put his final harvest to bed at the estate in South Gippsland and is looking forward to some well-earned rest following the sale.
We recently tasted the wines from his 2018 vintage. There are great chardonnay wines and an impressive gamay, but the pinot noirs have always been the wines by which Bass Phillip has been judged. The recent 2017 vintage release was one of the finest in the estate’s history and the new 2018 vintage wines (eight in total) are newly reviewed here as they are about to enter the market.
Jones explained that the 2018 vintage was a cryptic one and the wines really needed their time in cask and in bottle to build and come together. “They’ve never had the depth of flavor of the 2017s,“ explained Jones. “But the length of flavor and acid structure are there. They aren’t immediately obvious wines.”
Tasting through the four grades of Bass Phillip 2018 pinot noir, from Crown Prince, to Estate, Premium and finally Reserve, the wines are quite different in terms of shape and structure and they don’t follow a linear progression.
The 2018 Crown Prince Pinot Noir is looser-knit than the others and delivers plenty of punchy, knock-about pinot character. The 2018 Estate pinot has a polished and complex style and the 2018 Premium pinot doubles down on this with greater depth, complexity and length. It is a very convincing wine. Then the top tier 2018 Reserve Pinot Noir takes off in a direction of more ethereal characters and greater levity, delivering a lacy yet long and powerful impression.
BASS PHILLIP SOLD, BURGUNDY’S JEAN-MARIE FOURRIER NOW IN CHARGE
Jones explains that he first started thinking about selling up as far back as 2010 as there were no direct family members to take the business on. “I still love doing it,” he explains. “But I am getting too bloody tired.” As much as Jones has attracted unanimously high praise for his wines from all quarters, the fact that a producer of Fourrier’s pedigree is investing in the future of the project is another form of recognition. In the 40-odd years Jones has been at the helm of Bass Phillip, his unrelenting research-driven approach to making great pinot noir has seen his wines reach spectacular heights. These 2018s are, as always, a set of Bass Phillip pinots that express the intersection of vineyard, vintage and Philip Jones’ inquisitive elucidation of the harvest. It will be fascinating to see Jean-Marie Fourrier’s foray into crafting great Australian pinot noir as he assumes the winemaking responsibilities and to see just how he goes about crafting the next generation of Bass Phillip wines. |
TASTING NOTES
BASS PHILLIP PINOT NOIR GIPPSLAND RESERVE 2018
Country Australia Region Victoria Vintage 2018 |
Score 96 |
An ethereal nose here. This is a very complex and fragrant expression with a layered and detailed style that has abundant flowers, sappy forest wood, bacon fat, wild red cherries, pomegranate and already well-integrated oak. The palate has a very plush, long and lacy feel with very intense red-cherry flavor, bright acidity crunch and a sleek, long run to the finish. Energetic, yet measured, this is terrific pinot. Drink or hold. |
BASS PHILLIP PINOT NOIR GIPPSLAND PREMIUM 2018
Country Australia Region Victoria Vintage 2018 |
Score 95 |
This has a very pure pink-grapefruit, pomegranate and red-cherry nose with a deeply spicy oak thread that sits well inside the fruit. Plenty of earth and some red flowers here, too. The palate has a very plush, energetic core of red-cherry, pinot noir fruit. A real statement of concentrated fruit. The tannins extrude smoothly and frame a long, juicy and fresh finish. Stunning pinot noir. Drink or hold. |
BASS PHILLIP CHARDONNAY GIPPSLAND PREMIUM 2018
Country Australia Region Victoria Vintage 2018 |
Score 94 |
Very complex, rich and suave notes of grilled peaches, grapefruit and lemons arrive with a savory overlay of spiced biscuit and grilled hazelnut. The palate has a neat, fine and flinty feel with a smooth delivery of crisp, lemon and peach flavors. Drink or hold. |
BASS PHILLIP PINOT NOIR GIPPSLAND ESTATE 2018
Country Australia Region Victoria Vintage 2018 |
Score 94 |
This has a strikingly complex, intense nose with a rich array of cherries and berries, grapefruit and pomegranate, plenty of fruit spice, light pepper and a gently creamy, baking-spice oak thread. The palate has a very rich, intense delivery of beautifully ripe red cherries, framed in fine yet sturdy tannins. Long, fresh and energetic finish. Drink or hold. |
BASS PHILLIP CHARDONNAY GIPPSLAND ESTATE 2018
Country Australia Region Victoria Vintage 2018 |
Score 93 |
This has a fresh, lively, poached-pear, lemon, hazelnut and praline nose with some gently flinty nuances. The palate has a smooth, yellow-peach edge and a pithy lemon and grapefruit core with attractively sinewy concentration at the finish. Drink over the next five years. |
BASS PHILLIP PINOT NOIR GIPPSLAND CROWN PRINCE 2018
Country Australia Region Victoria Vintage 2018 |
Score 92 |
A sultry style of pinot that has plenty of suave red-cherry and fresh-violet aromas. The palate has a very fleshy feel with supple flavors of red and dark cherries. A nice kick of juicy acidity livens up the finish. Drink over the next five years. |
BASS PHILLIP CHARDONNAY GIPPSLAND OLD CELLAR 2018
Country Australia Region Victoria Vintage 2018 |
Score 91 |
A complex array of lightly poached peaches and pears, some clotted cream and biscuit spices and hazelnut praline, too. The palate has a smooth, mellow texture. Layered and creamy with plenty of ripe yellow-peach flavor. Drink now. Screw cap. |
BASS PHILLIP GAMAY GIPPSLAND 2018
Country Australia Region Victoria Vintage 2018 |
Score 91 |
This opens with some youthful, reductive meatiness which breathes off to reveal a swathe of blueberry, blackcurrant and violet aromas. The palate has a fresh, juicy feel with bright, lively blueberry flavors, vivid acidity and a crisp snap of tannin. Drink over the next five years. |